168 Chapters
Medium 9780253357076

3 Local Specialties, Local Identity

Nir Avieli Indiana University Press ePub

3    Local Specialties, Local Identity

Whenever asked by a Hoianese what exactly I was doing in Hoi An, I would answer that I was studying the town’s eating and drinking culture (van hoa am thuc Hoi An). The common response would be: “Ah, have you had cao lau yet?” For most Hoianese, researching the food in their town meant exploring their local specialties (dac san Hoi An), among which cao lau, a unique noodle dish, is the most prominent.

A book about these local specialties, titled Van Hoa Am Thuc O Pho Co Hoi An (The Culinary Culture of Ancient Hoi An), was published by Hoi An’s municipal research center, stirring some controversy (Tran 2000). Local critics argued that many of the thirty dishes listed were neither unique to Hoi An, nor to Quang Nam Province—and some were not even unique to central Vietnam. There were also debates over dish names, food terms, and even modes of preparation. Yet what I found most intriguing about The Culinary Culture of Ancient Hoi An was that a relatively small town could boast more than thirty local specialties. I later realized that some dishes are considered unique not merely to the district or town but to specific villages (e.g., banh dap Cam Nam [“Cam Nam broken crackers”] or mi quang Cam Chau [“Quang Nam Province noodles in Cam Chau village style”]). Some of the dishes described as unique to Hoi An can in fact be found in other places, where locals are quick to dismiss Hoi An’s claim for exclusivity.

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Medium 9781574412185

Working with Chiles

Kris Rudolph University of North Texas Press PDF

WORKING

WITH

POBLANOS • ROASTING

CHILES

AND CLEANING:

Roast the poblano chile directly over a gas flame until blackened on all sides (if you do not have a gas stove, lay the chile on a tray under a hot broiler). Transfer to a plastic bag and let sweat for 10–15 minutes. Peel off all the charred skin, dipping your fingers in water if needed. In Mexico, it’s common to see chiles peeled under running water; this does make it easier. However, you will lose some of the flavor. Be careful not to tear the chile when peeling.

FOR

CHILES RELLENOS:

Make a long slit down one side of the chile and remove all the seeds and veins with your fingers. (This is where the heat of the chile is concentrated, so be sure to clean it thoroughly.)

Leave the stem attached.

*You can always stuff your chiles, or at least roast and clean them, a day in advance.

FOR

POBLANO STRIPS (RAJAS):

Remove the core of the chile with a knife and make a slit down one side, opening it flat.

Remove all the remaining seeds and veins. Cut into thin strips.

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Medium 9782067181977

TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE

Michelin Michelin ePub

TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE

Trentino is a region of immense appeal to all lovers of nature and the mountains. Viticulture has been practised with excellent results along the course of the river Adige for centuries. International varieties such as Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon, Pinot, Cabernet, Merlot, Gewürztraminer, Müller Thurgau and Sylvaner are cultivated with great success, but it is the native varieties, such as Schiava, Nosiola, Lagrein and Marzemino, that are more interesting as they are more representative of the territory and part of its culture and tradition. Sparkling wines known around the world are produced under the appellation Trento DOC. Another of the region’s enological treasures is Vino Santo, a sweet wine of great charm produced in very limited quantity. Proud and strongly rooted in its traditions and culture, Alto Adige has two faces, Italian and Mitteleuropean. Grapes are the zone’s principal crop and its magnificent landscape is spread with rows of vines. Here the wines develop intense, complex aromas as a result of the large and sudden swings in temperature, daily and seasonally. In Alto Adige sharing a bottle of wine in company is a long established and deeply appreciated pleasure, and in autumn it is wine that provides the theme for a traditional series of convivial meetings: the Törggelen – a name derived from the Latin word torculum, meaning wine press – is the custom of touring the local cellars to taste the new wine and enjoy roast chestnuts, homemade bread, charcuterie, cheeses and other local foods.

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Medium 9781574414868

Chiles

Kris Rudolph University of North Texas Press ePub

CHILES

All the chiles used in this cookbook are readily available in most parts of the United States. If you cannot find them at your local grocery store, try a Latin supermarket.

POBLANO CHILE– A large, deep green chile mainly used for making Chiles Rellenos and roasted pepper strips (rajas). The poblano can vary from mild to hot, not giving away its true heat until you bite into it.

SERRANO CHILE– The serrano is very common in Mexico, especially in the central region. It is small, narrow, and dark green in color with an intense heat. Serranos are used in a wide variety of salsas and can be eaten either cooked or raw.

JALAPEÑO CHILE– The jalapeño was one of the first chiles introduced to the U.S. market. It is larger than a serrano, but with the same shiny, green color and spiciness. Jalapeños can be found year-round and are often served pickled with vegetables (en escabeche).

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Medium 9781574415889

Breads

Kim Stanford and Bill Backhaus University of North Texas Press ePub

BREADS

Bread is so elemental to life that it really was hard to imagine living without it. We’ve eaten some lousy gluten-free breads, and a cheeseburger on a corn tortilla is, well, a cheeseburger on a corn tortilla. No more. We love bread. No longer will you have to go without sandwiches, biscuits, your favorite Thanksgiving dressing, blueberry crumb muffins, cheese biscuits, pumpkin walnut bread, or buttermilk pancakes. They’re all here. Kim’s the baker and she adores pizza. Her last meal would be pizza. Our recipe for Pizza Crust is crispy and divine. You would never guess it’s gluten-free. Our recipes are creative and comforting, and they don’t taste like the side of a milk carton.

Remember, recipes that call for flour, bleached white flour, whole wheat, cracked wheat, barley, semolina, spelt, faro, kamut, triticale, or vital wheat gluten are not gluten-free. Don’t even think about eating those ingredients. Also remember that prepackaged bread crumbs, croutons, flour tortillas, pizza crust, piecrust, pretzels, wraps, pita bread, crackers, flatbread, and muffins are not gluten-free unless labeled as such. Our recipes really do allow you not only to maintain a gluten-free diet, but to enjoy it. We offer you one of the most important gifts in a gluten-free life: extraordinarily good-tasting gluten-free breads.

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